When starting for South Africa I did not feel the wrench of separation 
which I had experienced when leaving for England. My mother was now 
no more. I had gained some knowledge of the world and of travel 
abroad, and going from Rajkot to Bombay was no unusual affair.
This time I only felt the pang of parting with my wife. Another baby 
had been born to us since my return from England. Our love could not 
yet be called free from lust, but it was getting gradually purer. 
Since my return from Europe, we had lived very little together; and 
as I had now become her teacher, however indifferent, and helped her 
to make certain reforms, we both felt the necessity of being more 
together, if only to continue the reforms. But the attraction of 
South Africa rendered the separation bearable. 'We are bound to meet 
again in a year,' I said to her, by way of consolation, and left Rajkot for Bombay.
Here I was to get my passage through the agent of Dada Abdulla and 
Co. But no berth was available on the boat, and if I did not 
sail then, I should be stranded in Bombay. 'We have tried our best,' 
said the agent, 'to secure a first-class passage, but in vain – unless 
you are prepared to go on deck. Your meals can be arranged for in 
the saloon.' Those were the days of my first class traveling, and 
how could a barrister travel as a deck passenger? So I refused the 
offer. I suspected the agent's veracity, for I could not believe 
that a first class passage was not available. With the agent's 
consent I set about securing it myself. I went on board the boat and 
met the chief officer. He said to me quite frankly, 'We do not 
usually have such a rush. But as the Governor-General of Mozambique 
is going by this boat, all the berths are engaged.' 
'Could you not possibly squeeze me in?' I asked. 
He surveyed me from top to toe and smiled. 'There is just one way', he said. 'There is an 
extra berth in my cabin, which is usually not available for 
passengers. But I am prepared to give it to you.' I thanked him and 
got the agent to purchase the passage. In April 1893 I set forth 
full of zest to try my luck in South Africa. 
The first port of call was Lamu which we reached in about thirteen 
days. The Captain and I had become great friends by this time. He 
was fond of playing chess, but as he was quite a novice, he wanted 
one still more of a beginner for his partner, and so he invited me. 
I had heard a lot about the game but had never tried my hand at it. 
Players used to say that this was a game in which there was plenty 
of scope for the exercise of one's intelligence. The Captain offered 
to give me lessons, and he found me a good pupil as I had unlimited 
patience. Every time I was the loser, and that made him all the more 
eager to teach me. I liked the game, but never carried my liking 
beyond the boat or my knowledge beyond the moves of the pieces.
At Lamu the ship remained at anchor for some three to four hours, 
and I landed to see the port. The Captain had also gone ashore, but 
he had warned me that the harbour was treacherous and that I should 
return in good time. 
It was a very small place. I went to the Post Office and was 
delighted to see the Indian clerks there, and had a talk with them. 
I also saw the Africans and tried to acquaint myself with their ways 
of life which interested me very much. This took up some time.
There were some deck passengers with whom I had made acquaintance, 
and who had landed with a view to cooking their food on shore and 
having a quiet meal. I now found them preparing to return to the 
steamer, so we all got into the same boat. The tide was high in the 
harbour and our boat had more than its proper load. The high current was 
so strong that it was impossible to hold the boat to the ladder of 
the steamer. It would just touch the ladder and be drawn away again 
by the current. The first whistle to start had already gone. I was 
worried. The Captain was witnessing our plight from the bridge. He 
ordered the steamer to wait an extra five minutes. There was another 
boat near the ship which a friend hired for me for ten rupees. This 
boat picked me up from the overloaded one. The ladder had already 
been raised. I had therefore to be drawn up by means of a rope and 
the steamer started immediately. The other passengers were left 
behind. I now appreciated the Captain's warning. 
After Lamu the next port was Mombassa and then Zanzibar. The halt 
here was a long one – eight or ten days – and we then changed to another 
boat. 
The Captain liked me much, but the liking took an undesirable turn. 
He invited an English friend and me to accompany him on an outing, 
and we all went ashore in his boat.  I had not the least notion 
of what the outing meant. And little did the Captain know 
what an ignoramus I was in such matters. We were taken to some Negro 
women's quarters by a tout. We were each shown into a room. I simply 
stood there dumb with shame. Heaven only knows what the poor woman 
must have thought of me. When the Captain called me I came out just 
as I had gone in. He saw my innocence. At first I felt very 
much ashamed, but as I could not think of the thing except with 
horror, the sense of shame wore away, and I thanked God that the 
sight of the woman had not moved me in the least. I was disgusted at 
my weakness and pitied myself for not having had the courage to 
refuse to go into the room. 
This in my life was the third trial of 
its kind. Many a youth, innocent at first, must have been drawn into 
sin by a false sense of shame. I could claim no credit for having 
come out unscathed.  I could have credit if I had refused 
to enter that room. I must entirely thank the All-merciful for 
having saved me. The incident increased my faith in God and taught 
me, to a certain extent, to cast off false shame. 
As we had to remain in this port for a week, I took rooms in the 
town and saw good deal by wandering about the neighbourhood. Only 
Malabar can give any idea of the luxuriant vegetation of Zanzibar. I 
was amazed at the gigantic trees and the size of the fruits.
The next call was at Mozambique and thence we reached Natal towards 
the close of May.